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Whenever curating a roll of London’s best dining spots, one might anticipate well-known high-end establishments. But, situated prominently among these culinary giants is a modest salonu situated in a far-flung part of northern London.

An Surprise Accolade

This small Turkish restaurant, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the 4th top restaurant in the city by a influential gastronomic guide. The accolade has made the family completely shocked.

“I’m completely shocked,” says a owner’s son, referring to his family’s relentless work that resulted in their small shop earning such a high position on a notable 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Simplicity

The compact space, which started as a simple cafe before its conversion into a buzzing spot, has maintained much of its original character. It fits just over 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking performance, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky spot,” comments the owner.

A Signature Creation: Tantuni

However, it’s all down to the cuisine, and this establishment definitely excels. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to maintain a tender texture.

The meat is then added into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. Once the flavourful mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to take in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is folded securely inside.

The wrap is usually eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a powerful slap of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A respected food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For sweets, the eatery’s künefe goes down a treat. It is doused in lighter syrup than usual, giving it a richer, more aromatic and less sickly flavour.

Rising Above the Stars

Remarkably, this unassuming restaurant has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the peak of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place satisfied for less than £25, comparable experiences at luxury establishments can run into many times that amount.

The Creed of Hospitality

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is located well beyond the city’s central zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. It is expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I don’t subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is friendliness, kindness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The view is supported by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he were in a position of power, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London come to this spot as a final lesson, to show them the dangers of overcomplication, and to reveal what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Journey of Perseverance

Unlike many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food didn’t train at fancy establishments. “I feel truly happy of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its success is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum would be really tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a social life but her friends would visit to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. All of these roles made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

An Accomplishment for the People

This restaurant’s accolade is bound to have meaning outside its own doors. “In my opinion many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the broader meaning of this culinary honour.